Helion_Paper_Soldiers_HEL0745Wargame_The_Spanish_Armada_1588_By.pdf

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SPANISH
ARMADA
1588
PETER DENNIS
with easy rules by
Andy Callan
WARGAME
THE
Helion & Company Limited
26 Willow Road, Solihull, West Midlands B91 1UE, England
Telephone 0121 705 3393 • Fax 0121 711 4075 • Email: info@helion.co.uk • Website: www.helion.co.uk
Twitter: @helionbooks • Visit our blog http://blog.helion.co.uk/
Published by Helion & Company 2017
Designed and typeset by Farr out Publications, Wokingham, Berkshire
Cover designed by Paul Hewitt, Battlefield Design (www.battlefield-design.co.uk)
Printed in the UK by Henry Ling Limited, Dorchester, Dorset
Text © Peter Dennis and Andy Callan 2016
Pictures © Peter Dennis 2016
The ship artwork pages in this book are copyright free for your personal hobby use. They may not be
reproduced for sale or included in other publications without the consent of the copyright holder.
ISBN
978-1-913336-76-9
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data.
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted,
in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without
the express written consent of Helion & Company Limited, other than for personal hobby use.
For details of other military history titles published by Helion & Company Limited contact
the above address, or visit our website: http://www.helion.co.uk.
We always welcome receiving book proposals from prospective authors.
2
MAKING PAPER FLEETS
If you are familiar with the ‘Battle for
Britain’ series of paper soldier books
you will be prepared to photocopy all
the artwork pages. ‘Armada’ though, is
a little different. Because you will only
need a single individual model of many of
the ships in the fleets, it was our original
intention to present the book as mostly a
‘cut out from the pages’ title, with only a
few of the artwork pages needing to be
copied, and the’ cut-out ‘pages to have
blank backs.
That is, in fact, how the book pages
are organised, but it seemed a shame to
leave those blank pages when we had far
too much to say about the subject!
You will find, therefore, that most
of the artwork pages are marked ‘Cut
or copy’ and will have text on the back
which is historical information, which you
may read and then sacrifice, or game
scenarios, which you will want to copy if
you intend to use Andy’s game.
Some pages are marked ‘Copy’.
These contain either game components,
of which you may need many for a big
game, or in the case of the English
armed merchantmen and the invasion
barges, rather generic models of which
an indeterminate number is required. They
may have other artwork on the back and
Before you begin
should NOT be cut into.
The sea mat on the centre spread is
to be copied multiple times if you wish to
make a large sea area on which to play
the game.
If you copy artwork pages at home, or at
a commercial copier, the paper will most
likely be 80 gram, which is fine. However,
if you have the slightly thicker 100 gram
paper available, use that. The glue layer
is really responsible for the stiffness of the
models, but the extra paper weight helps
too.
The coastline strips should be printed
onto the heaviest gauge of paper you
have, but will need to be glued to a stiff
paper backing as well.
You will have to find the postcard
type ship base card yourself, Christmas
and birthday cards are perfect for this.
You don’t need anything stiffer than that.
Andy always worries that a sneeze will
clear his armada off the table, so if you
suffer from a similar paranoia you might
seek heavier basing material. Sheet lead
springs to mind, but Andy says a cut-up
self-adhesive vinyl tile is more practical.
I like solvent type glue like UHU for
the models, but white PVA glue can be
applied with a brush, and is very stiff
Paper and Glue
when dry. You will need to straighten the
curve out of the dried model sheet before
you cut. PVA is perfect for painting on
to finished models to stiffen vulnerable
projections. It is invisible when dry. I use
contact adhesive of the supermarket
‘general purpose’ type for basing as it has
lots of ‘grab’.
Scoring is cutting partway through the
surface of the paper with a craft knife to
get a clean fold.
I do this by eye rather than using a
straight edge as it is quicker and you can
see the scoring line better.
You will need a small, pointed pair of
scissors. I used embroidery scissors when
I first started making small paper models,
but now I often use a pair with a blade
which is 6 cm from the nut and cost a
pound or so in a supermarket. Scissors
are cheap and readily available. You could
cut out the models with a craft knife, but
it is much slower, and the blades blunt
quickly.
The trick to cutting out with scissors is
to keep your cutting hand steady, perhaps
resting on your leg, and to move the piece
you are cutting to manoeuvre around the
shapes. Start slowly, never rush, and you
will get faster with practise.
Scoring and Cutting
3

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