Musketeers_amp_amp_Grenadiers_of_Imperial_Russia_1812.pdf

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THE BATTLE OF
2012
Thanks for your patronage. I hope you like my pictures and have fun turning them into VAST miniature armies.
These particular pictures exist because they were commissioned. I love to make pictures of soldiers but it takes lots
of time and that can be di cult to a ord and justify from within my everyday self. But who cares - spiders eat ies -
and I've become Christopher Walkerloo... Christopher War&Peace!!!
In January 2012 a Russian children's book publisher contacted me regarding a collaboration that could enable an
Eastern advance for my toy soldier armies. They wanted to produce my Waterloo toy soldiers under license in Russia
but more excitingly (for me) wanted a new series for the battle of Borodino.
An agreement was made, an advance paid, and in June 2012 (200 years after Napoleon crossed into Russia) a second
Edition of my pre-made Waterloo-inspired toy soldiers marched East. They were to be re-enforced at the bicenten-
nial commemoration of the battle of Borodino in September 2012 by the new Borodino toy soldiers. Oh,,, that never
happened... and it's left the Waterloo troops in Russia ghting it out alone...
200 years ago today (21 Nov) in Russia Napoleon’s formidable Grand Armée, having created apocalyptic destruction
on its march to Moscow, was disintegrating in the most horri c way on it's retreat. If the new Eastern toy soldier
army had been of the new Borodino soldiers they could have surfed the media wave of bicentennial interest and
pro ted from the emotional profundity implanted with national cohesion and belonging - the prerogative of history
based toys on home turf...huh? hmmmm.
Print-Fantry to the rescue!!! I made all the paintings for the new army throughout the Spring of 2012 - I was bonkers
busy but loved it. It took another couple of months to organise these pictures into Walkerloo Print-fantry units but
they are now ready for real play pretend battle action!! They have both white and black pro le surround capability
and are arranged within A4 and US Letter print safety zones. I believe them to be the nest 'Print-fantry' the world
has ever seen.
I will always be trying to make more. Keep a watch. Have Fun. The future.
Chris. (myTHself, Christopher Walkerloo, Christopher War&Peace etc.)
ps. I welcome feedback and I'm always seeking alliances. e-mail chris@walkerloo.com.
A note from WiP (Walkerloo Information and Propaganda) to all patrons.
The Plastic Mega Corp Toys that are the sworn enemy have once again consolidated their command . In Nov 2012
Disney aquired the rights to the StarWars cultural commodity and in doing so extended it's influence over global
mythology deepening it's controlling reach into the world’s popular escapist imagination. But my secret intelligence
has revealed a 'Point Faible'. In the tongue of the enemy 'An analysis of the plans provided by Princess Leia has demon-
strated a weakness in the battle station.' I am now developing a strategy that will endeavour to exploit this weakness.
Evgeny Ivanov (order #6091798)
What you need.
glue. a spray glue is best but any glue with
low water content is good.
black felt pen (for black surrounds).
steel rule or metal cutting edge.
craft knife.
cutting matt or card-board.
Walkerloo Print-fantry sheets.
card stock -about 300gsm for stiffening your
figures.
5mm foam core for the bases.
brown/black/orche acrylic paint and brush for
finishing the bases.
newspaper or area matting.
Somthing cool to listen to, I like audio books,
BBC radio dramas or history and philosophy
stuff. ooooh?
Making your Print-fantry.
1) With the back of the knife-blade score the
sheet or individual figure fold lines.
2) *For Lancers cut the pennants from the
main sheet - they don’t need the card.
3) Apply glue to the reverse side of your
figure sheets.
4) Place the stiffening card up to the fold line
and smooth the sheets down on either side of
the card. I use an old sock for this.
5) Carefully cut out the figures using the steel
rule to keep the bases straight.
6) Smooth over the cut edges of your figures
on the reverse/under side because the knife
blade will have flared this edge. I do this with
my finger nail.
7) Use the felt pen to colour the exposed card
edges and tidy any stressing of the prints
whilst cutting. Now they've a nice finish!
Thickening card
Folded PDF
Evgeny Ivanov (order #6091798)
Basing the figures
Obviously base your figures as you like,
but this is how I do it.
1) Glue the Earth sheet(s) to some 5mm
foam core.
2) I don't use a straight edge to cut the
shapes for my bases and I only approximate
their size. For a gun and crew I use a
120mm square-ish. Generals and Staff I
mount Individually on 25x60mm-ish. I
mount cavalry in 3’s on 70x120mm-ish.
Line Infantry in 5's on 70x120mm-ish.
Light Infantry skirmishers in 2's on
70x50mm-ish.
3) I then cut ‘slits’ in the foam core slabs
running almost the full width but taking
care not to cut them right across! The slits
are 2cm apart for line infantry and 4cm
apart for cavalry, the light infantry about
50mm apart and I vary the positions and
angles of the artillery crews to their gun.
Somtimes I even place a figure backwards,
shhh. When cutting out the gun I leave
tabs on the bottom of the wheels to hold the
gun to the base and cut small squares in the
wheel centre and axel point. I use a 40-
50mm steal bolt and nuts for the axel.
4) To widen the mouth of the slits I run the
flat of my knife along the slit length. This
way the figure can enter the base easily but
is tightly gripped by the foam interior.
phoah.
5) Paint the exposed foam core edges of the
base with dark earthy coloured acrylic
paint. Any muddy mix will do! As you
paint around the base use your finger to
wipe off any paint spilled on to the base
surface - wipe your finger clean on the new
cloths you’re wearing... fun fun fun.
6) Join the Battle Of Walkerloo!z
Evgeny Ivanov (order #6091798)
Evgeny Ivanov (order #6091798)
Evgeny Ivanov (order #6091798)
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