Fistful of Lead - Horse and Musket.pdf

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Introduction
What you need to play
Turn Sequence
Special Cards
Actions
Reloading
Moving
Terrain Basics
Buildings
Shooting
Cover & Area Terrain
Wounding
Close Combat
Better Weapons
Loaded Weapons in Close Combat
Breaking Down Doors
Leaders
Optional Rules
Traits
Scenarios
1- Fight at the Farmstead
2 - The Road Better Less Travelled
3 - Ye Olde Defense of the Bridge
4 - Capture the Gun
5 - The Last Stand
Playing at di erent scales & multi-based
models
Special Rules
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Game Design:
Jaye Wiley
Cover Art:
Jaye Wiley
Interior Spot designs:
Ramon Olivera
Playtesters:
A lot of people have played over
the years, but mostly the Basement Generals.
They are, in no particular order: Ken “Lead
Addict” Boone, Al “Little Al”Troutwine, Chris
“Cluck Amok” Cluckey, Greg “Where’s the
cover?” Moore, the 3 Scotts: (Mathews,
Wagner and Lindsey), Roger “Just Got
Rogered” Reed, John “the New Guy” Fleckal”,
Chad “Don’t look at my record sheet” Gilbert,
Nick “Kuski” Wilkowski, Jay “Propaganda
Architect” Reese, Bill “DRT” McHarg, Ramon
“Silver Fox” Olivera, Steve “Dutch Oven”
Willaredt, Doug “the New, New Guy” Strue,
Brett “Polska” Murawski, Marshal “the Boy”
Wiley, and his sister Rowan.
My playtesters from Across the Pond: Harvey
Faulkner-Aston and his son Joe, and Mike
Watson.
Special thanks goes out to the Fistful of Lead
Yahoo Group for their continued support and
ideas, and anyone over the years who has
played and left a nice review on a web site.
You’re the reason we have a following.
Special, special thanks goes to the over ow-
ing fountain of patience that is my wife
Robin, who understands when I spend way
too many hours “playing with my soldiers”.
Published by Wiley Game Design
Copyright Jaye Wiley 2016. All rights reserved
Horse and Musket
The original
Fistful of Lead
had been around for
a long time, when in 2001, I was nally talked
into writing them down and publishing them.
The rules have turned out to have a very small,
but loyal fan base. Those people, who like I,
want rules that can be learned in a couple of
turns, keep the avor of the period, and are
fast and furious with that Hollywood air.
Over the years, our local group, the Basement
Generals, have carried the original
FfoL
into
other periods. And it has worked.
The Horse and Musket period has always had
appeal to wargamers. There are great
uniforms, di ering troop types from natives to
European regulars and the last bit of armored
cavalry. Combine those attributes with many
di ering locales to ght, and what’s not love?
The drawback has always been which of the
myriad periods to dive into? Huge armies
mean huge money and huge time commit-
ments to painting all that lead or plastic.
Now, you can try out di erent periods within
the Horse and Musket era without spending a
ton of money. In most games, players will only
need at most, 6 miniatures a piece. Games can
have up to 8 players without slowing the game
down. Perfect for conventions or large gaming
groups.
The game is meant to be scenario based.
Several are provided at the end of the rules
spanning from the French and Indian War to
the American Civil War. But, coming up with
your own scenarios is half the fun.
This was a time of gentlemanly warfare, so
such behavior is highly encouraged. So, don
your powdered wig, straighten your tricorn,
and dive into
Fistful of Lead: Horse & Musket.
To play
Fistful of Lead: Horse & Musket
you’ll
need: this rule book (or just the Quick Refer-
ence sheet), 10-sided-dice (referred to as d10),
an ordinary deck of playing cards minus the
Jokers, a tape measure, markers for status
(found in the back of the rules), a place to play,
preferably with terrain and the models repre-
senting you troops.
Before starting, there are a few things you
need to wrap your head around.
If you’re purchasing these rules, we’re assum-
ing you know what a wargame is, so I don’t
have to go into that. The scale is meant for
25-28mm, but you could just as easily use
15mm halving the measurements, or just use
centimeters instead of inches.
One miniature equals one man, and as such,
there is no facing. Players should eld 5-6
miniatures and probably include a leader of
some type for each group. This could be a
stalwart NCO or Indian war leader.
This is NOT a simulation of historical warfare. It
IS a great way to spend a couple of hours with
your friends having fun and playing with
soldiers.
And, since you paid for these rules, they are
ultimately your rules. If you don’t like some-
thing, change it.
Your companion throughout the rules is
Sgt. Smith, He’s a bit gru , but he’s got
some good advice.
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Horse and Musket
He throws down his King and takes both actions
to move to a nearby barn. Next, “Queens!” are
called. Nobody has one, so the turn proceeds to
Jacks. Both Steve and Mike throw down a Jack.
Mike has a Jack of Spades so he goes before
Steve’s Jack of Hearts. Play proceeds until all
models have been activated
Got it? Good!”
1- SHUFFLE CARDS
2- DRAW CARDS, THEN TAKE ACTIONS
Each player is dealt one card for every model
soldier they control. For example, Scott has
three models in his group, so he gets 3 cards.
Ken has two left after a previous turn, so he
gets 2 cards. Players are allowed to look at their
own cards, but not the cards of others.
The turn is played out from highest (King) to
lowest (Deuce) card (Aces are explained in
Special Cards,
below).
A player or referee is designated as the Caller.
They begin the turn by calling out “Kings!”.
Every player with a King card (if there is one)
throws it down.
Cards cannot be saved for later. Each card
“activates” one of the player’s models. The
player then takes
TWO actions
with that
model (see
Actions,
below).
Once a model has been activated and done its
actions, it may not be activated again until
next turn. Next “Queens!” are called, and all
players with a Queen card go, then Jacks, Tens,
etc. In the case where more than one player
has the same card, Spades go rst, then Hearts,
then Diamonds, then Clubs are last.
In addition to activating gures, some cards
have special qualities. They are referred to as
Special Cards.
They are played just like normal activation
cards, but allow the player to do some unusual
feats and spice up the game. The cards and
their qualities are:
Queen of Hearts-
If the model activated with
this card has any wounds, (see
Wounds,
below)
ONE is healed (remove a wound counter)
instantly. The model still has its 2 actions.
Queen of Spades-
If the model activated with
this card is Shaken, (see
Shaken,
below) it
recovers instantly. The model still has its 2
actions.
One-Eyed Jacks (Hearts & Spades)-
The
model activated with this card has a
+1 to hit
in Shooting.
Two-Eyed Jacks (Diamonds and Clubs)-
The
model activated with this card has a
+1 to hit
in Close Combat.
Sevens (any suit)-
The model activated with
this card may re-roll any one die result this
turn.
Sixes (any suit)-
The model activated with this
card may reload automatically. This overrides
the normal reload rules. The gure still gets 2
actions.
Deuces (any suit)-
The model activated with
this card may choose to roll 2 dice for either
Shooting or Close Combat and pick the best
result.
Aces (any suit)-
An Ace is wild and can be any
card the player wishes. It must, however, be
played in sequence.
“Listen up, Recruit! It’s the begin-
ning of a new turn. Steve has been
dealt three cards, one for each
model he controls. He gets a King, a
Jack and a 5. Mike has four cards.
The caller calls out “Kings!”. Steve has two models
in cover and one lone soul standing out in the
middle of a eld just asking to be a target.
Steve decides to use his King to activate the
model in the eld.
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Horse and Musket
“All right. Let’s say Steve has 2 Aces.
He knows he wants to go rst in the
turn, so when the round starts and
“Kings!” are called, he lays down
one of his Aces and states it’s the
King of Spades. If there are no other Kings of
Spades out there (i.e. the real one) he goes rst,
since Spades come rst in precedence. If, howev-
er, there was a real King of Spades laid down, the
real one would go before Steve’s.”
Here’s another example: Later in the round
“Sixes!” is called. Steve’s been holding on to the
second Ace for just the right moment. The other
players have been ignoring one of his models
because he has “Reload” marker and they know
he needs two actions to reload. Steve lays down
his Ace and calls it a “Six”. His model instantly
reloads and takes one of his actions to blast
away at the models that ignored him! That’ll
teach ‘em.”
A “real” card always takes precedence over an
Ace impersonating it. As in the example above,
a real King of Spades goes before Steve’s Ace
acting as a King of Spades. If multiple Aces are
played, all acting as the same card, the order of
Spades then Hearts, etc. takes precedence.
Sometimes you’ll end up with more cards than
gures. This happens when a player has a
model eliminated before he has a chance to
activate it. The player holds on to the extra
card until the end of the turn and tosses it on
the discard pile.
WHEN ALL CARDS HAVE BEEN PLAYED (ALL
MODELS HAVE BEEN ACTIVATED) A NEW
TURN BEGINS.
When a player activates a model, it gets
TWO
actions. Some di erent actions include:
• Moving
• Shooting
• Picking up / dropping something
• Getting on / o a horse
• Jumping from rooftop to rooftop
• Recovering from a Shaken or Wounded result
• Aiming
• Reloading
The list can include anything the players can
think up (agreed upon by all involved).
The actions taken by the gure can be di er-
ent. For instance, a gure could move then
shoot, or shoot then move.
The actions can be the same. For instance, a
gure could move twice (run), but not shoot
twice, unless armed, say, with two pistols.
It takes one action to attempt recovery from a
Shaken result or a Wound (see
Wounds,
below).
Only one attempt per turn may be made. If the
attempt fails, no other actions may be made
but to Fallback (see
Moving,
below). If the
attempt succeeds, the gure gets one more
action.
RELOADING
After a model res, place a RELOAD marker
(either a counter provided or use a cotton
ball) next to the model. It takes two actions to
reload. These actions can not be split up over
di erent turns.
“Let’s say Scott activates a model
and uses his rst action to Shoot.
He places a RELOAD marker next to
the model. For the second action
he could move, but can’t remove the RELOAD
marker without spending two actions uninter-
rupted.
He’ll have to wait until next turn, and hopefully
he’ll get a 6 card.”
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